So Much to See in the Orkney Islands

06-08-2022

We're going to catch a ferry to the Orkney Islands and Google Maps says it will take 2 1/2 hours;  but Gwyneth says it will take 3 1/2 hours!!  We decide that if we listen to Google and Gwyneth is right we'll be in big trouble, so I get up and 2:30 and after we strip all the beds, bag up the towels, and take out the garbage, we're on the road at 4:01!!  Yay us!!

These beautiful yellow flowers are gorse and they cover the hillsides all over Scotland!

So many windmills!

And sheep

Almost there!

Gaas is bound to be cheaper than on Orkney!

Fabulous breakfast!

The Olld Man of Hoy is the tallest sea stack in all of the British Isles.
He is Old Red Sandstone.

Turns out Google was right and we're an hour early.  But that's okay because Marilyn needs an ATM and a restroom and the car needs a gas station.  We accomplish all three missions and are still first in line for the Northlink Ferry from Scrabster to Stromness on Mainland, the largest of the Orkney Islands.

We've pre-purchased aa continental breakfast on the ferry but it turns out that we can actually get everything that we want!  There are scrambled or fried eggs, several breakfast meats, pastries and more.  Any buffet that includes pain au chocolat, brie, and decaf latte is first class as far as I'm concerned! After eating we go out on deck, braving the winds, and see the unusual geology of the islands.

We're here!  and there is so much to see.  We begin with the Ring of Brodgar which is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, along with Skara Brae, Maeshowe and the Stones of Stenness. Together they represent one of the most important and richest surviving Neolithic landscapes in Western Europe.  Or so the signs say!  It is the third largest henge (circular enclosure) in Britain.  Seeing standing stones was on my wish list for this trip, so I'm thrilled. 

From here we go to Skara Brae and Skaill House.  Skara Brae is a 5,000 year old settlement that was uncovered by the tremendous winds along the coast.  It is the best preserved prehistoric village in all of Europe.  It is also unique in that the furniture is also preserved! There is a replica of one of the houses which tourists can walk into because the actual ones can only be seen from above.  It is inspiring to think about what those ancient people could accomplish with only stone tools and ingenuity. It is also interesting to note that all the houses were the same size; so, apparently, there was no social hierarchy.

After being awed there we were able tour the house of the man who unearthed Skara Brae!  The sign says we can experience a family home as it was in the 1950s! We all had homes in the '50s but they were nothing like this!!

In the gift shop we are chatting with the young man behind the counter.  He is from Ireland butt his wife is from Orkney and they live here now.  Marilyn mentions that we have been unable to see a single "Airy Coo" and we believe they are as mythical as the Scottish unicorn!  He says he passed a small herd this morning and gives us directions.  Sure enough, there they are!!  Another item off my short wish list!

North, now, to Birsay where we stop first to look for puffins, without any luck but thee are the ruins of the Earl's Palace which was founded in 1574 and next door is the St, Magnus Church with an interesting graveyard.  Several of the stones begin "Erected by ... in memory of ..." which sounds like the person who erected the stone is more important than the deceased.

We drive to the Point of Buckquoy and watch the crashing waves and tilted formations.  And, of course, Ginger has to walk as far as possible toward the Brough of Birsay on a path that is only fully accessible at low tide!  It's not low tide!

We haven't had lunch and it's getting late.  We stop at a couple of hotels whose restaurants were recommended by Trip Advisor, but they are all closed until five!  We give up and head for our B&B, Shoreland, on George Street.  We have to call to ask directions because our reservations do no give a house number and we don't see a sign.  He comes out to the street to wave us down and he's as charming as he can be!  We bring in our overnight things and chat with Nickie for a while.  He give us directions to several restaurants and we set out to forage.

Beiting means chatting

St. Ola's Hotel is serving dinner and we're too hungry and tired to be choosy.  The little girl who serves us must be brand new.  She doesn't know what beers they have on tap or much about the menu;  but, as I said, we're not going to be picky. 

When we're finished we ask Gwyneth to take us home and it's lots easier this time.  Nickie is getting a bowl of Cocopuffs for his son and tells us about the new restaurant his brother has opened, since we were asking for authentic Orkney food!  And he tells me where to find the liquor store that was recommended by the young man, Carmac, at the gift shop (He was a wealth of information!) Nickie has a piece of furniture that serves as a wine rack and aa glasses rack and a serving area for evening coffee and tea.  And it's made from an old upright piano!

Upstairs we go through the dance of settling into a new space.  Marilyn and Ginger are sharing the bunk beds and Connie and I are sharing the double.  It's an early night because we are all totally exhausted!